Relatively Creative Patterns Blog

Note: Click on any of the pictures to make them bigger.

This is my favorite way to handstitch a binding to the back of a quilt. I’ve been doing it for years and it hasn’t failed me yet.

1. Thread the needle and tie a not in the end. Don’t use a very long piece of thread because it will get tangled and generally be a mess to work with. I like about 20-25″.

2. Start by taking a 1/4″ to 3/8″ stitch in the backing of the quilt, just above the machine stitching line (the picture below is in the middle of binding, so there is no knot showing).

3. Insert the needle into the fold of the binding, right where the thread is coming out of the backing.

4. Take another 1/4″ to 3/8″ stitch in the fold of the binding.

5. Insert the needle back into the backing fabric, right where the thread is coming out of the binding. Continue stitching, alternating between binding and backing.

6. When done properly, the stiching will be invisible.

That’s one of the big reasons I prefer this stitch over a whip stitch. You may notice from the pictures that I don’t have to match the thread, because it won’t been seen once the stitching is done.

I’ve heard this stitch called a few different things, but I call it the ladder stitch. If you pull the stitching apart, the threads form a “ladder”.

The key to this stitch is making sure to insert the needle exactly where it exited on the previous stitch. If you don’t, then the thread will show:

Ok, on to the fun part: turning the corner!

7. As you are stitching, your needle will be alternating between being in the binding and the backing fabric. As you approach the corner, you want to make sure the needle is in the binding fabric. This means you may have to take a couple of little stitches as you near the corner.

Make sure the needle exits the binding at the corner right where the binding intersects with the backing.

8. Turn the quilt, so that the edge you haven’t been stitching on is now sitting in your lap. I bind from right to left, so I turn my quilt counterclockwise. It may be different for you.

9. Take a vertical stitch in the backing, right along the folded edge of the binding. Make sure the needle exits at the intersection created by the machine stitching and the folded edge of the binding. I drew some lines showing the intersection, just for extra clarity.

10. Your binding corner should now look like this:

11. Fold the binding up so that it forms a mitered corner:

12. Insert the needle into the folded corner of the binding, right at the inside corner of the miter.

13. Take a stitch in the fold of the binding, just like you have been doing.

After I turn the corner, I like to take a few smaller stitches for added strength and security.

14. Now insert the needle into the backing and continue on with your ladder stitch.

Notice that every step of turning the corner followed the “stitch in the backing, then stitch in the binding” rule:

1. You start with the needle in the binding at the very edge of the quilt

2. You turn the quilt and take a back stitch in the backing.

3. You fold the binding up to create a mitered corner and you take a stitch in the folded binding.

4. You take a stitch in the backing and continue on with your ladder stitch.

Once you get into the rhythm of this stitch you will find that it goes very quickly. Pop in your favorite movie, settle in on the couch with your needle and thread and you will find that you’ll have your quilt bound in no time.

First off, I’m not paid or otherwise reimbursed to say good things about these products (although if anyone can make that happen….. ) These are just a few of the things that I can’t live without when I’m quilting, and I hope I can show a few new people to how awesome they are.

Mary Ellen’s Best Press

Link: http://maryellenproducts.com/

I really can’t say enough good things about this stuff. It’s a starch-like spray (but not starch) that comes in several light scents, and also unscented. When I’m cutting squares in half to make triangles, I give the squares a spritz and press them before cutting. The Best Press really reduces the bias distortion once they’re cut. And if I have a block that’s just a tiny bit too small (and who doesn’t get those occasionally?) giving them a good spray and thorough pressing gets everything nice and flat, and usually makes them big enough. I always keep a bottle on my ironing board.

General’s White Charcoal Pencil

I love these pencils for marking medium to dark fabrics. They have a nice soft lead (well, charcoal technically) unlike those old dressmaker’s pencils that tear up the fabric and never make marks anyways. You can sharpen them with a regular pencil sharpener, and they have an excellent point when sharpened.

Creative Grid 20″ Square Ruler

Link: http://creativegridsusa.com/

Really, I love all of the Creative Grid rulers. The black lines on the clear acrylic make them really easy to read, and the built in 1/2″ feature is nice. But the 20″ruler is one of those that seems like a waste of money, until you actually need one. Then they are the Best. Thing. Ever. They’re perfect for squaring big blocks, squaring the corners of quilts, and cutting big strips. I also frequently use mine on t-shirt quilts when I have large motifs to cut out.

Dritz Iron Off Iron Cleaner

So there is a possibility I may, once in a blue moon, accidentally fuse my applique pieces wrong side up and stick them to my iron. This stuff is the best for cleaning goop off irons. You get the iron nice and hot, squirt on a big dollop of this stuff and rub it around (I like to use scraps of cotton batting) It gets my iron nice and shiny in no time. Sometimes little bits of cleaner and gunk get in the little steam holes on the face of the iron, so I like to iron a piece of scrap cloth and hit the steam button on the iron a couple of times to clear everything out.

So those are some of my favorite things to have one hand when I’m quilting. I’d love to hear about some of yours!

This is my absolute favorite way of constructing half-squares and flying geese, especially if you have to make 288 half squares, like I’m currently doing. (ugh, why did I count them?) I love that this method doesn’t require you to draw diagonal lines on the back of all your squares. This method does require a little concentration and careful sewing, but if you take it slow, even a beginner will have no problems.

First step: Place your needle in the center stitch position, the default for most machines. If your machines has one, attach a center-piecing foot (a foot that has a visible center opening or mark. If you happen to own a Baby Lock, it will be the “N” foot) Using painter’s tape or post-it notes, mark a visible center line from the needle down. Be sure not to cover the feed dogs.

Note: I prefer painter’s tape over post-it notes because it is longer-wearing, but I made do with what I had.

Continue the marking all the way to the edge of your sewing machine. If your machine doesn’t have a lot of space in front of your needle (at least 4″ – 5″) this technique doesn’t work as well.

Before you start sewing your blocks, gather a piece of scrap fabric, place it under your foot and sew off the edge of the scrap. If your machine has a “pivot” function (lowers the needle and raises the presser foot every time you stop sewing) I recommend you turn it on.

Obviously, our scrap has been well-used! DO NOT cut your threads after sewing on the scrap. You will be using a technique called “chain piecing” Starting with a scrap like this is especially useful when sewing flying geese and half squares, because it helps to prevent the starting corners of your fabric from getting “eaten” by your sewing machine.

Layer your fabrics right sides together. Position the corner of the fabric that you wish to start sewing on directly in front of the needle (A). Line the fabric up so that the bottom corner of your squares (if you’re making half-squares) or the bottom intersection of your square and rectangle (if you’re making flying geese) is lined up with the center marking (B).

Start sewing. As you sew, don’t look at the needle. Just keep your eye on the bottom point, and make sure it’s staying even with the line you made on your machine.

Once you have finished your seam, DON’T cut the threads. Position your next square so that the starting corner is again lined up with the needle, and the bottom corner is even with the center line.

Continue chain piecing until all of your half squares/geese are finished.

How easy is that?! It certainly beats drawing diagonal lines on the backs of 288 squares (not that I counted or anything).

Hello there, Heather here. I’ve been deemed Chief Blogger by Lisa, resident techno-phobe (boy, I’m gonna get it when she reads this!) My goal for this blog is not only to give exciting updates and sneak-peaks into our newest patterns and projects, but also to share some of the many tips and hints that Lisa and I have picked up over the years. I really hope people will be able to use us as a great go-to reference. To that end, please enjoy our first helpful post: some easy tips to make bias piecing easier.